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The differences between the Gamecube controllers? (Original, White, and Smash 4)

D

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I've seen discussion that the triggers are different, and after opening up the white one I can definitely see the mechanic for triggers seems a bit different. However, out of all the controllers, are there more differences in them? Is the Smash 4 Controller like the White controller? or is it different?

Is the Japanese White Smash 4 controller different from the Black Smash 4 Controller? Would appreciate as much information on this subject as possible.
 

Kadano

Magical Express
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
2,160
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Vienna, Austria
T1 / T2 / T3 = Stickboxes of type 1, 2, 3
For those that have multiple stickbox types selected, it’s random which stickboxes exactly are in. Sometimes control stick and C-stick even have different stickbox types.

Controller color| T1 | T2 | T3 | Has metal bars | Sharp ridges on back plate | Wider ridges in triwing screws
Purple|✔|✔|✔|✔|
Black|✔|✔|✔|✔|
Purple / Clear|✔|✔|✔|✔|
Platinum (silver)||✔|✔|✔|
Orange|✔|||✔|
Emerald Blue||✔|✔|✔|
All Clear|||✔|✔|
JP white (2008)|||✔||
Smash 4 white (2013)|||✔||✔|✔
Smash 4 black (2013)|||✔||✔

If you have pictures of the internals of other controller colors (unmodified), please provide them here so I get more data for the table. Same if you have a controller that contradicts this table. (For example, there might be all-clear controllers out there with type 2 stickboxes.)
 
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Pauer

The Pauerful
Moderator
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Dec 25, 2013
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595
Location
Linz, Austria
Kadano Kadano
I have an issue with my Smash 4 controller that I've seen talked about a lot.
Unlike with my Japanese white controller, I was sometimes not able to get reverse neutral-Bs with my black sm4sh controller.

Someone here claimed the issue is caused by the stick slamming to the opposite direction when released, negating the initial input back. This actually seems to be correct because my problem was resolved after I started to keep my thumb on the control stick instead of releasing it.

But I don't understand why that would be the case with only the Smash 4 controllers.
 

Kadano

Magical Express
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
2,160
Location
Vienna, Austria
I’ve looked into this recently, snapback happens both with Smash 4 controllers and JP white controllers. T3B and T3W had similar rates too.

The problem seems to decrease with breaking in the stickbox. You can also completely prevent it by keeping your thumb on the stick knob after full left / right inputs.
 

SunnieHD

Smash Rookie
Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Messages
21
My sm4sh black controller seems good at shield dropping and stuff but hey I'm no expert
 
D

Deleted member

Guest
Kadano Kadano In your opinion, what would be the best combination of controllers (if I were to fuse the parts into one without modifying them) for Smash Bros competitively?
 

RevySSB

Smash Cadet
Joined
Jul 20, 2015
Messages
64
I really am in need of buying a genuine gamecube controller but dont know where to check. I found a Boxed Silver Controller on ebay which was for like 100$ but dunno if its worth it.
 

AscendantAquila

Smash Cadet
Joined
Apr 17, 2015
Messages
64
Just buy a new Smash 4 controller online, they are like $25 on Amazon and Ebay. They have issues with the triggers, their inconsistency is my largest issue as I have had ones that feel good and others that feel terrible, it's pretty hit and miss. I don't like the textured plastic, it feels cheaper to me, but that's simply a matter of preference. IMO the sticks are better mainly due to the fact that they are newer than most OG controllers. They are usually better at shield dropping than older controllers, but it's pretty random as Kadano noted, if backdash is an issue with them, you can swap the c-stick and control stick springs and the problem usually gets better. I suggest buying a Smash 4 controller and a triwing screwdriver and if you have an older controller use the triggers from the older controller as well as the shell. If you are willing to spend more, I'd get the JP white (similar to the smash 4 controller but has normal plastic and no smash ball on it) because I think they feel better than Sm4sh controllers although they should be the same.
 

Archelon

Smash Journeyman
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Messages
393
Location
Ontario, Canada
I’ve looked into this recently, snapback happens both with Smash 4 controllers and JP white controllers. T3B and T3W had similar rates too.

The problem seems to decrease with breaking in the stickbox. You can also completely prevent it by keeping your thumb on the stick knob after full left / right inputs.
Isn't that also better for the controller, too?
 

ZafKiel

Smash Apprentice
Joined
Aug 27, 2015
Messages
164
IDK if this is just me but I feel like the new Smash controller has stiffer buttons. Or maybe it just hasn't been broken in yet...

Always buy OEM
 
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Stride

Smash Ace
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
680
Location
North-west England (near Manchester/Liverpool)
Is there any data on whether the sticks in Smash 4 type controllers have more wobble (as in, the amount of distance they will move without resistance) compared to JP white controllers, assuming the sticks are brand new? This has been the case in the controllers that I have used, though since I've only had opportunity to properly try out the sticks of 2 new JP white types and 2 new Smash 4 types (both black), that could be written off as coincidence. I've heard other people claim this.

From what I've seen, JP white sticks have extremely little wobble when new, while Smash 4 types have a significant amount (though still fairly small). I would assume that since both types have type 3 stickboxes the sticks should be the same; could there perhaps be some sort of manufacturing difference between them that affects their functionality, or something of that nature?
 
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SpiderMad

Smash Master
Joined
May 6, 2012
Messages
4,968
T1 / T2 / T3 = Stickboxes of type 1, 2, 3
For those that have multiple stickbox types selected, it’s random which stickboxes exactly are in. Sometimes control stick and C-stick even have different stickbox types.

Controller color| T1 | T2 | T3 | Has metal bars | Sharp ridges on back plate | Wider ridges in triwing screws
Purple|✔|✔|✔|✔|
Black|✔|✔|✔|✔|
Purple / Clear|✔|✔|✔|✔|
Platinum (silver)||✔|✔|✔|
Orange|✔|||✔|
Emerald Blue||✔|✔|✔|
All Clear|||✔|✔|
JP white (2008)|||✔||
Smash 4 white (2013)|||✔||✔|✔
Smash 4 black (2013)|||✔||✔

If you have pictures of the internals of other controller colors (unmodified), please provide them here so I get more data for the table. Same if you have a controller that contradicts this table. (For example, there might be all-clear controllers out there with type 2 stickboxes.)
Do you know if The JP White (2008) started being made differently at all later on? I have three JP white controllers, two of which were bought a year or so later than the first though I still have all the identical boxes they came in, and the coating is slightly shinier on the first I bought like its got a different texture entirely where it reflects light better while the others diffuse light like the Smash 4's rough texture [and it's not a Smash 4]. I can't make sure it's just from being worn, as the other two are still in-box/unused.

Yeah I took a video. The old one that's less rough than the other two has more reflection. I can't tell if this is from use, it looks more shiny over the whole thing.

EDIT: I'm pry actually just unaware of how use changes controllers, as much as I think the texture is different it pry changes to be a lot more glossy after use; as well as the control stick/buttons later starting to feel better like the first I have too (which I wasn't the person to break it in long ago).
 
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